Trip's end

 Jonathan & I left Grindavik the 6th September, and got in to Clifden on the 15th. That is 9 days out & 700 nautical miles (850 land miles) - slow. The winds were largely poor. Off Iceland the wind died, and we drifted waiting for it to return. Then in the remains of a hurricane blowing straight from Ireland - for us just under a gale - we hove to. Then the last 3 days a breeze from dead astern, with a relatively large sea - necessitating taking turns steering: for a break late each night we hove to to sleep.

A great many dolphins at sea, drawn to the sailing ship. A school of pilot whales. A big pod of rorquals, probably fins - perhaps 20 - spouting in the distance. Also a pod of the large type of dolphins welcoming us off the White Lady & escorting us well into Clifden Bay. I had never seen this type so playful and so frolicksome. 

Jonathan thoroughly enjoyed himself. What a pleasure it is to travel with someone who is appreciative and thankful.

My Austrian friends sent me a batch of photos, from the weeks we spent together in N Iceland and E Greenland. An essential component of travelling is crossing paths with old friends. I had met Jurgen and Claudia once before, in 2012 in Vestmannaeyjar, S Iceland. I was on my 1st trip to Greenland, and they were on their way to winter over alone in a remote cove in W Greenland, went on to cross the NWP, winter 2x in Cordoba, Alaska, sail on to South Island, NZ,  traverse the Magellan Straits, on to Antarctic & South Georgia and up the Atlantic. An epic 7 year trip. We stayed in touch over the years. It was a delight to spend time with them. Here are some photos from them. 


                                                      With Jurgen. Husavik, Iceland




                                    Hiking, at Greenland. Ashore, Jurgen and I always carried guns, loaded for bear. 


The next day we went to the foot of the glacier in the background, and walked up its side moraine. 





                                                    On that walk we saw muskox




                                                    These were not so shy.




Following La Belle Epoque (Claudia & Jurgen's ketch). Early morning, just rounded Cape Brewster and entered Scoresbysund. Behind us is Northabout, built by Jarlath Cunnane at Castlebar, Mayo. He sailed her with Paddy Barry and others around the NWP (Arctic Canada & Alaska) & NEP (Arctic Russia). Northabout is now under French ownership, and a crew of 8 lively young women chartered her for this trip. 



                                               











             Thanks for the pictures, Claudia and Jurgen. I hope to see you again on the sea. Soon. 


                                                

                                 Some bring home from their travels souvenirs...


                                                                 Walrus. Tusks set in maxilla.


I did what I wanted to do. Around Iceland, and, above all, quality time in the Greenland wilderness. That said, when sailing, accomplishing the goal means little. Goals are there to get me going. 

Greenland, as ever, is mind blowing. As I get to know her better (this is my 3rd trip to Greenland) I understand better how to adapt to being there.

But the awe of the Greenland wilderness, the shocks, the thunderous shocks, never go away. 

We did a lot of foraging: splendid. 


It is now late September. Teddy is in her winter berth, at Clifden's stone quay. I have a long list of stuff to do on her, all minor, nothing major. Already my thoughts wander to next year's trip. The wilderness of the Arctic is the pull. DV, we will see.







Comments

  1. AnonymousJuly 9, 2024 at 8:56 AM

    Excellent photos! Thankyou for sharing this Arctic sailing adventure. Jeffrey😳⛵️

    ReplyDelete

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