Arctic tern (Icelandic: Kria) eggs in black volcanic sand, Djupivogur. Close up of same. Note the grains of sand blowing across the eggs. Photos by Ashleigh Wilson
Grilling Arctic char and loon/diver. (The diver got caught in a net set for char.) The meat of the diver was superb. Turner Island, just south of the entrance to Scoresbysund Dryas octopetala Hot water spring. This is about 5 feet in diameter. The red boat is La Belle Epoque, owned by the Austrians Jurgen and Klaudia Kirchburger. Ther circumnavigated the Americas, did the Northwest Passage, wintered over in a remote location in west Greenland on this boat, spent time in South Chile, Tierra del Fuego, the Antarctic, and South Georgia. Check out their website: fortgeblasen I met them 10 years ago in S Iceland & we stayed in touch. We got very close. Minor ice field offshore. We sailed to where the ice had cleared, according to the continually updated Danish ice charts available online, and we did not encounter any major icefields.
Two days ago we got back to Iceland, to Talknafjordur in the Westfjords. The transit across the Denmark Strait took two days and was without drama. We left sailing true south with a good NE wind on the stern quarter, passed through the ice field of the East Greenland current, which was extremely diminished, and as the wind gradually died the next day we motored the rest of the way. Greenland is intense. A wild chaos of powerful impressions that will take a while to process. Most of the visit was in total wilderness, the ice is always present, and there is always the possibility of running into a bear. We went through Scoresbysund, rounded Milne Land with its massive mountains lining the passage, anchored at various places and had many fantastic walks. The farthest inland we went from the mouth of the Sound was 130 NM, or 150 miles. Then to Ittoqqotoormiit, a village of 350, the village farthest north up the east coast, and no communities to the south for 400 NM. This is an extreme...
Wishing you safe travels and fair winds. I hope to keep up to date through the blog here in Dublin.
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