Iceland to Ireland

  I joined Nick and his crew Karl and Mike on the Teddy in Reykjavik where we spent a few days getting to know each other before making the short trip to Grindavik.

On route I had the pleasure of listening to Karl playing the trumpet across the smooth cool blue waters of the bay.

We stopped to fish about a mile offshore and I could not believe how easy and fast it was to catch them. You couldn't get the line to the bottom before you had them hooked. Testament to how well Iceland has restored and maintains its fish stocks. Karl and Mike left the boat from Grindavik to return to the US and we set sail for Ireland. 

There were favourable winds on the first days and Teddy was ploughing her way through that cold North Atlantic on her own. Nick was able to trim the sails so she could self-steer, a technique he has learned, refined and continually is adapting.  It was remarkable, no wine vane or any other device was needed. 

Every day we were greeted by dolphins and seabirds and we spotted several whale pods in the distance with their plume of exhale just visible against the horizon.

One day we were treated with a pod of pursuing pilot whales. Unlike dolphins they seemed to prefer chasing rather than leading. Their big bulbous noses bashing their way through our wake was an absolute joy to behold. 

We had a few other visitors, a few unfortunate small birds that had been blown out to sea that stayed on deck for a while. One took refuge for the night and we managed to feed him making fat balls with butter and crushed seeds. In the morning he took flight against our better advice. The winds were from the East and I doubt he got very far.  

The winds turned south and we had to tack and beat our way towards Ireland and it was harder to set up the self-steering. I learned a lot from Nick about this and how it was about balancing the forces of the wind and water. Not only that but about the sea, the marine life, the stars and weather and more besides. We eat heartily and Nick in his words become a more creative cook the more the supplies dwindled. We did attempt fishing about 2/3 of the way but only succeeded in catching a Fulmar. It snagged itself in the wing and fortunately Nick could release it unharmed. 

I always sleep exceptionally well on boats, something about the rocking swaying that feels so comforting. In the forward bunks the heavy thudding and echoes of the waves as they drubbed the steel sides sand creaks and groans of the wood was like a nautical orchestra. At times I could even hear dolphins with their joyful whistles, squawks and playful barks. 

Our arrival into Irish waters was late so we had to back the Genoa and trim the main and heave to for the night. The next morning the mountains of the Irish coast rose to greet us on yet another blue-sky day. Nick is intimately familiar with these shores, and the history he could tell I found very interesting. Many of the nearby islands them were home to ascetic monks who retreated there during the Early Christian times. They lives must have been as brutally hard as they were short given the bleakness and isolation.

As we rounded into Cliftden harbour a pod of large dolphin escorted us in almost to the dock. It’s a beautiful part of the world, quiet, unspoiled and wild in nature, not unlike the captain. I can see why he could settle here. We were treated that night with the company of some of his friends and a wonderful meal. It’s a tight knit community and everyone was so eager to hear about his exploits and was large full size Polar bearskin and Walrus skull to explain on board as well. 

I thoroughly enjoyed the trip from start to finish and it was a pleasure to meet all those on the way. Wishing you Nick many more adventures on Teddy and all those who sail with you.